Now that I’ve gotten a chance to settle in and get over jetlag (yes, it took awhile for me), I thought I’d discuss the differences I am facing so far in my short time in London. Before you read any further, please note, I am American! I am currently an expat in the UK, who has previously lived here for a number of months, when I studied abroad three years ago. Now I am back for an entire year (at least, hoping for longer), and feel that from my experience living in America, and now for a bit in England, I can use my observations to create a fully thought out conclusion about my experience. Please know, none of these examinations come from ignorance, just the world I’ve become knowledgeable about whilst traveling and living abroad.
I am dying for a good cup of coffee. My coffee standards are quite high (having been a former barista), and I’m having a lot of trouble finding a coffee shop around the city. I was hoping Starbucks was the same across the globe, but their Pike Place roast is not brewed the same way here. I gave Costa a chance, but was a bit disappointed. The only place that has given me at least something with some strength has been when I got an Americano at Prêt à Manger, and I finally felt some satisfaction from that cup of warm coffee. I’ll have to keep testing different coffee shops out around the city, but I’m hoping I can find a place that will rival anywhere in America.
I got a chance to go to Brighton on Sunday, and other than the lovely drive down, it was fun to kind of compare the Brighton Pier to the Santa Monica Pier in California. Last autumn, when I lived in Los Angeles, I was able to go to the Santa Monica Pier a few times, and to be honest they’re very similar. Rides, games, vendor food, and all near the beach. I can see why people like to get away to the seaside here. Brighton’s beach did confuse me when there was no sand, but instead just rocks all the way down to the water. Upon further research, I learned that this was because of the differences in geology from the coast of California to that of England.
This observation isn’t necessarily related to the fact that I’m in England, but for the first time, I am living somewhere that is a major tourist destination. In fact, London gets over 12 million visitors a year, and it’s already strange walking to campus or home and barely being able to go two feet without having a tourist run into me. I’ve never lived in a place where, literally the area I am in, is where people congregate to visit a famous landmark. I am next door to Westminster Cathedral, 3 minutes from Victoria Station, and a 10-minute walk to either Buckingham Palace or Big Ben. When I was in LA, I wasn’t really near to Hollywood or anywhere of importance, so it wasn’t the same feeling. Right now, I am in the midst of historical places that receive thousands of visitors a day.
The process for school is much different in England. In the United States, as a citizen, it wasn’t a huge debacle when going to university in the way it is over here, especially as an international student. With the free healthcare in the UK, it’s a major game changer. And by free, I know it’s not completely free, but as a student, I am entitled to the National Healthcare Services a normal UK citizen would receive while I am here. This means signing up with a local general practitioner and kind of going through the whole doctor process again, which I haven’t done in years. Also, in the UK, school information is a lot slower, because most students don’t know what university they are going to until August, so this means us Americans (who usually know we’ve been accepted, what our classes are, and where we’re living by May or June) are antsy to know what we’re doing, since we don’t get that confirmation of information until right before classes start. I begin next week and don’t know my course timetable yet!
The differences in beauty aesthetics here are interesting to me. One may never want to leave the Pacific Northwest because they love the fact that they can always get to the ocean quickly, and are surrounded by evergreen trees. A person may never want to leave London because the buildings are beautiful and old, the parks are large and spacious, and there are tons of famous landmarks to pass on a daily basis. I can see the value in both. While I enjoyed the natural beauty of the Seattle area, I was navigating towards the more architecturally built beauty that London (and much of the UK and Europe provides). Of course, there is a lot of natural beauty all over this continent as well, but specifically in London, a city built up over centuries, it’s easy to see how it was created and became what it is today, whereas the Pacific Northwest still revels in its scenic charm.
Since it’s been almost two weeks since I left, I’m able to start focusing on how I can learn to better understand London and what it is about it that makes it so special in my mind, and the minds of others. There must be a reason why so many people choose to live here. There must be a secret to how America evolved into what it is today, even though our roots are in England. In the end, we’re all people, so what is it that makes someone a Londoner? I hope to become one by the time I am finished with my course next September.
I suggest a book called “Watching the English: The Hidden Rules of English Behavior” by Kate Fox. It will give you a lot of insight into English culture and people. It will also help you to get to know English people easier. It is a very different culture.
I second that recommendation–it’s an excellent book. The author is English, and she often points out the very traits she is talking about in herself. It’s also very funny.
For the coffee, steer away from Starbucks, Costa et al….go for an individual local shop, rather than the chains. The local shops can be a little more flexible in how you like your coffee.
It has been a while since I have been in that part of London, but I seem to remember a few excellent places near to Victoria station and the roads leading to it from Westminster!
Try Cafe Nero. I quite like their coffee and they have a loyalty card that helps to save money
Hi Samantha! Try Monmouth Coffee, I fell in love with it! http://www.monmouthcoffee.co.uk/our-shops
You are in England…..why not try tea?? Its way better than coffee in England.
We like Monmouth as well, that’s the closest we’ve found to good coffee so far, and some if it is organic as well. Having come from the Pacific Northwest ourselves, it has taken a while to find good coffee to satisfy our addiction.
try Higgins on Duke St. near Bond St tube stop
Get yourself a little moka pot from Italy. It makes great lattes!
Wonderful!
I hope you learn to love tea, or get a french press and some good quality coffee beans online 🙂
Or, just jump down to Italy on your break!
Try Notes on St Martin’s Lane, parallel to Charing Cross Road. But Graham is right, there is fantastic coffee in London, but nobody rational would expect to find it in Starbucks.
Try the coffee at a Nemo’s. There’s one at Embankment station, near the bridge to Parliament.
And of course, enjoy a sausage from the carter’s on the bridge 🙂
When I lived there, I bought a french press and then asked people to send “folgers” over!
In London, my favorite coffee is served in the tearoom of Fortnum and Mason. Among their many varieties is Puerto Rican coffee, which is very difficult to buy in the USA, except online. Fortnum and Mason’s tearoom is open for three meals a day, which are always well made from the excellent ingredients on hand in the rest of the store.
I agree with the Caffè Nero rec
I spent two years studying in Cardiff. After I returned to the States, I had a long list of things I loved and hated about living in the UK. I’ll have to dig that out. (I also live in the Seattle area.)
Second on cafe nero-it was my first good cup in the UK. But I would also consider a French press, which is what I did for most of my time there. I believe Nero carries both whole bean and pre ground for a press.
When I asked a Texan in Houston what American Coffee was, he replied “You won’t like that s**t, keep to the Continental, that’s real coffee. Enough said!
It is only the south coasts of England that have rocky beaches… Most of England has gorgeous sandy beaches especially Northumberland , Durham & Yorkshire. I suggest you get out of London as often as you can & enjoy the REAL England…
I second the vote for Monmouth — it’s delicious, and that’s from someone who usually doesn’t drink coffee.
One thing I might contribute — Get out of London and see England. i.e., the countryside in England, Scotland and Wales. You’ll find that once you leave London the country is quite a bit different than the “multicultural” (read: Asian and Arab) population of London. Sure, there may not be a convenient “curry” on every corner in, say, Newcastle or York, but you can always find a pub that has great fish ‘n chips!
I am a Londoner living in FLa, & some other beaches near to London try KENT , Dymnchurch , Margate , Ramsgate , Eastbourne , Hastings , all have lovely sandy beaches also see Rye very quaint & further going South the gorgeous beaches of Devon, Cornwall , can not be beat … Yes lots to see “When a man is tired of London he’s Tired of life !!! I am envious But after 25yrs I am returning to live in a few months .. I miss REAL culture & history …. Enjoy your time &keep the updates coming enjoying your thought’s & experiances .
Adapt and learn to love the country you are in or else you will get miserably homesick and not really be happy over there. Actually I was made somewhat more miserable by the constant reminders of the USA when I was on the base. Somehow, I got all choked up when they had a good old fashioned American style barbeque on the base. I was not so upset by an Italian meal off base. As for coffee check out the Italian restaurants and bars in London. If you really miss American food and coffee maybe there are some US chain places out in town in Mildenhall, England. Midenhall is the major USAF base in the UK. At least it was the last time I checked. It is very possible if the base is still in operation that there will be places in town that cater to Americans’. Sadly without a military ID you cannot go anyplace on base unless you meet a serviceman and he signs for you to go on.
I am a Brit who came the other way across the pond…i do not drink tea…i always had a Perculator and used Douwe Egberts , it makes a wonderful cup
Definetely try Kitchen & Pantry, here you go the website where you can find the two addresses they have, I’ve always tried the one in Notting Hill and it’s without any doubt my favorite place to have a coffee and a crepe (try the one with strawberries & chocolate), it’s an ecological place with is full of people on Saturdays but very quiet the rest of the week. Hope you like it 🙂
http://www.kitchenandpantry.co.uk/ourshops.html
Enjoy your time here! I’m an American living in England for 14 years now. Love it and after all this time I still feel like a tourist….which is nice….
dead simple, forget the chain coffee shops look for a brand sign for illi coffee beans outside a local place and realy if you are a real coffee fan in Europe esspresso is the only way to go.
Dave
So, you’re actually comparing the US to London, not the rest of England. London is so far removed from the rest of this country it is unbelievable. Get out to the Cotswolds, the Yorkshire moors, Devon and Cornwall. Go see Bath, Liverpool and York. These are a world away from London. As for good coffee? Stay away from the chains…..
Hi, I enjoy reading your blog, thanks for sharing! Regarding the coffee in London – the trend in last few years is, that there is lots of really good coffee around the town, but don’t look for it in the chain shops! East London started this I believe and by now there are great coffee shops all over London. Others suggested Monmouth coffee, I would add as example – Look mum no hands, Allpress (near Bricklane), if you go more east then you’ll notice MANY – come on a Saturday to Broadway market and taste coffee in Climpsons or from the guy with a coffee stall half way through the market. You won’t regret! I found this great list of coffee shops in London http://www.standard.co.uk/goingout/restaurants/londons-best-independent-coffee-shops-9227737.html Hope this helps, because we all need the right cup of coffee (or tea!) in our lives!
Cafe Nero is good and I’ve found that the coffee at many of the Prêt à Mangers in London is better than the coffee at their place in Union Station here in Washington. As for Starbuck’s, since I think it tastes like they burned the beans here in the US, instead of roasting them, I’m certainly not going to waste my time and money patronizing them abroad. My method for finding a good cup of coffee is to follow my nose – if it smells burned or stale, I stay away.
Actually, there are two American Air Force bases much closer to Samantha than RAF Mildenhall/Lakenheath (and yes, RAF Mildenhall is still very much active). RAF Blenheim Crescent and RAF Croughton. And yes, you’ll need an American service member or family member in order to enter the base(s). Have no fear! This Army wife would be happy to help you out. Should you ever truly need a specific American product that you absolutely cannot live without, I will hook you up (so you won’t have to pay to have it shipped over)! But something tells me that you are going to be just fine without needing anything specifically American for the next year. I know you will fully immerse yourself in all thinks UK and embrace everything that is British. Samantha, I’m so glad you made it here safely! I’ve been following your blog since before you arrived and I’m glad you are now here! I completely agree that you do need to spend some of your weekends in the UK getting out of London. You can easily take the train from Waterloo Station to Salisbury and see the beautiful Salisbury Cathedral (walking distance from the station) and then hop on a bus to Stonehenge (we live 13 miles away from “the big rocks.”). If you ever head this way (southwest) I would be happy to host you for a weekend … we have a guest room and live on a British Army patch (post). You must take the train to Bath! It’s an absolutely beautiful city … don’t miss the Christmas Market in Bath! There’s also a great Christmas market (with ice skating) at Winchester Cathedral in Winchester …. only an hour by train (from Waterloo). Take the tube to King’s Cross/St. Pancras and hop a train heading north to York! It’s a great city to explore. Better yet, hop a train out of King’s Cross to Edinburgh, Scotland (4-1/2 hours by train) and just spend the weekend exploring. Definitely take the train to Wales while you are here! I would recommend making your way to Tintern Abbey in Wales. Make sure you go online and get your student rail card so that you can get discounted fares on all your train travel. I would second the recommendation of reading the book “Watching the English” by Kate Fox and I would also recommend the book, “Notes from a Small Island” by Bill Bryson. My two favorite “London books” are “London Villages: Explore the City’s Best Local Neighbourhoods” by Zena Alkayat (I’m particularly fond of Marylebone) and a book called “London’s Secrets: Peaceful Places” by David Hampshire which, among other things, contains a list of wonderful and unique coffee shops in London, along with a list of wonderful (and some beautiful) independent book stores. Be sure to make time for (spend a whole day at) The British Library!
The best place for a regular cup of coffee is Iceland. Everywhere we visited had excellent coffee. Since returning to the US, we still pine for a good cup of Icelandic coffee.
The best food in the UK vs US are the sausages and selection of real ham.
I am following your blog very closely. I may have an opportunity to study abroad for a summer semester in Canterbury, England. I have been to Edinburgh and it is wonderful. Since you are from the Northwest, hopefully you are familiar with mountains and steep streets since Edinburgh has the steepest streets this flatlander has ever seen. Good luck with your studies and all your time in England.
Canterbury you will love love love … I am a brit in FLA , moving back to Maidstone kent soon ! My son moved back to M/Stone last Nov. after being here 25 yrs & so happy … Canterbury & all of kent is so gorgeous so many lovely villages .. to explore the climate is less cold too. Best of luck 🙂
Just got this in my Guardian email: http://www.theguardian.com/travel/2014/jun/30/london-best-coffee-shops-readers-tips?CMP=ema_1195
I wish I was in London if only to explore all the coffee houses mentioned in this article. Have a great time and do go visit that US military couple who have offered to host you for a weekend. Bath is amazing from the baths to the walks (canal walk, skyline loop walk in the surrounding hills) and more. I once stayed in a home near the University of Bath and met the most interesting people along the paths and walking the 1.5 miles downhill (and uphill!) to the city. In my next life I am definitely going to be a resident of Bath!